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Teaching English in Mae Hong Son, August 2009

If you are looking for a unique and rewarding experience, and you like being independent, getting away from the crowds and experiencing life with the locals, then Mae Hong Son is the ideal choice for you.

I volunteered through Travel To Teach in Thailand’s north western town of Mae Hong Son during August 2009. The sleepy border town is a far cry from the crazy bustle of Bangkok and the lively buzz of Chiang Mai. A five hour journey by minivan from Chiang Mai, famed for its numerous hairpin mountain bends (1,864 if the tourist t-shirts are to be believed!), but don’t let that put you off – the views are awe-inspiring.

Mae Hong Son is nestled in a valley, surrounded by stunning misty mountains. The town in August was very quiet (rainy low season) and I imagine come peak summer season the town is quite different, but in August it feels dominated by locals, with farang tourists few and far between. My guesthouse, overlooking the lake that forms the centre of the town, was basic, but clean and friendly. Although it is small, the town is full of great coffee houses, bars and restaurants. In the evenings the lake is also surrounded by a great food market, with inexpensive but delicious food.

My main contact during my stay was the man who runs the local Orphanage for Burmese refugees. Kham Chuen, himself originally a Burmese refugee, is a very remarkable man. He pretty much single-handedly runs the Orphanage, making sure the 45 children it houses are cared for, fed and schooled. One of the bonuses of volunteering here getting to know him and see his good work and commitment to the Orphanage in action.

The children at the Orphanage range in age from 8 to 15. Many of them have come from unimaginably hard situations. Some are refugees escaping the situation in Burma, some are from poverty stricken local hill tribes, or come from abusive homes. There are several children who have lost parents to AIDS, and one boy suffering from HIV. However, regardless of their hard origins, the children are delightful and enormous fun to be around. Considering what many of them have faced, they are remarkably mature, respectful and incredibly supportive of each other. It is a joy to share in the little community they have contributed in building. Understandably shy with strange volunteers at first, they soon open up with group games and are great fun to play with.

Kham Chuen’s office, near to the Orphanage, is a short drive to the east of the town, so a scooter or push bike is definitely needed to reach it. The office is the organisational hub of the Orphanage, and a useful base for volunteers to find out info about their stay. There are several members of staff around the office and orphanage, who are very welcoming.

The Orphanage is tucked away behind several paddy fields, and there is no road access, so to visit you follow a five minute hike along a dirt path and cross a bridge over a stream. It has no electricity, so visiting after school in the evenings is limited passed sunset and preferable at the weekends.

During my stay I taught Grade 2-6 at the local school of Toong Kong Moo, where the majority of the orphanage kids attend. The school is situated about 10 minutes drive north from the town. The school is very sweet and the teachers friendly (although their English is limited, so Kham Chuen initially helps as a translator). Teaching classes there is very rewarding as the kids are eager to learn. The school is extremely flexible in what hours you choose to do, and in what topics you’d like to teach.

I can’t recommend volunteering in Mae Hong Son enough, and in particular working at orphanage. This location offers you a sense of freedom and a glimpse of the real side of life in Thailand.